Introduction
Panthenol has become an indispensable ingredient in modern cosmetics. Whether as a soothing ingredient in wound ointments, a moisturizer in shampoos, or a nourishing component in skin creams, panthenol is rightly referred to as an “all-rounder.” This provitamin of pantothenic acid (vitamin B5) is not only extremely versatile but also well tolerated, making it a popular ingredient in cosmetic formulations. But what makes panthenol so special? How exactly does it work? And in which products is it particularly useful?
Occurrence in nature and production
Panthenol itself does not occur directly in nature, but its target compound, pantothenic acid (vitamin B5), does. This is found in many foods such as whole grain products, eggs, nuts, rice, milk, and avocados. It is essential for the human organism and is involved in numerous metabolic processes.
Panthenol is produced synthetically, usually by condensing β-alanine with isobutyraldehyde, followed by a reduction. This produces an alcohol that is later oxidized in the body to biologically active pantothenic acid. In cosmetic products, the dextrorotatory isomer dexpanthenol is usually used because it has particularly good bioavailability.
Advantages of panthenol
- Skin care:
Panthenol is known for its moisturizing, anti-inflammatory, and wound-healing properties. It strengthens the skin’s barrier function by improving the stratum corneum and increasing its water-binding capacity. Even at a concentration of only 1%, panthenol shows a significant improvement in skin moisture and elasticity. This makes it a popular active ingredient for dry, cracked, or irritated skin.
- Hair care:
Panthenol easily penetrates the hair shaft, where it improves moisture supply and elasticity. It gives the hair shine and suppleness and reduces hair breakage. Panthenol has a soothing effect on the scalp and supports regeneration, which is why it is also used in hair tonics and shampoos for sensitive scalps.
- Nail care:
Nails also benefit from the moisture-binding properties of panthenol. It increases the flexibility of the nail plate and thus prevents splitting and breaking.
- Medical application:
Panthenol is used in wound healing, for example for burns, minor injuries, sunburn, or eczema. Panthenol is also a standard ingredient in products for tattooed skin, as it promotes cell regeneration and has a soothing effect.
Disadvantages of panthenol
Despite its many positive properties, there are a few limitations:
- Allergies: In very rare cases, skin reactions such as redness or itching may occur. An allergy test can be done as a precaution.
- Compatibility with other substances: Panthenol should not be combined with strongly perfumed or colored substances, as these can irritate the skin.
- Use in the genital area: Panthenol can impair the tear resistance of condoms, which can lead to reduced protection.
Effectiveness and recommended concentration
Numerous studies have proven the effectiveness of panthenol in skin care. A concentration of 1% is sufficient to significantly improve the skin’s barrier function and increase hydration. In medical applications, panthenol is often used in concentrations between 2% and 5%.
For example, a clinical study showed that at a concentration of 5% panthenol, skin healing after a minor burn was significantly faster than in the placebo group. A reduction in itching and erythema was also demonstrated.
Possible applications in cosmetic products
Panthenol is an extremely versatile ingredient that is suitable for many cosmetic product ideas:
- Soothing day cream for sensitive skin
- Ideal for allergy sufferers or customers with rosacea.
- Combined with ceramides and niacinamide to strengthen the skin barrier.
- After-sun lotion or after-sun gel
- Supports skin regeneration after UV radiation.
- Cools and soothes reddened or irritated skin.
- Nourishing hair tonic with panthenol
- Particularly suitable for dry, flaky scalps.
- Promotes moisture balance and relieves itching.
- Hand cream for stressed hands
- With 5% panthenol as the main active ingredient.
- Ideal for professionals who frequently disinfect their hands.
- Lip balm with panthenol
- Protects against dryness and chapped lips.
- Also available in a lightly tinted version.
- Nail care stick or serum
- For brittle, dry nails.
- Combined with biotin for a strengthening effect.
Physicochemical properties of panthenol
INCI: Panthenol
Alternative names: Dexpanthenol, pantothenol, provitamin B5
CAS No.: 81-13-0
Molecular formula: C₉H₁₉NO₄
Molecular weight: approx. 205.25 g/mol
Physical state: viscous, colorless liquid
Boiling point: approx. 118–120 °C
Solubility: water-soluble
Odor: subtle, pleasant
Special features: hygroscopic, slightly sticky
Safety risks: no serious risks known, rare allergic reactions
Special features during use: may affect the tear resistance of condoms
Conclusion
Panthenol is a proven, safe, and highly effective ingredient in skin, hair, and nail care. Its excellent skin compatibility and versatile effects—from promoting wound healing and improving skin moisture to smoothing hair—make it a real asset to numerous cosmetic products. Panthenol is an indispensable active ingredient for skin care concepts that focus on visible results, protection, and well-being.
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Literature:
Stettler H, Kurka P, Lunau N, Manger C, Böhling A, Bielfeldt S, Wilhelm KP, Dähnhardt-Pfeiffer S, Dähnhardt D, Brill FH, Lenz H.J Dermatolog Treat. 2017 Mar;28(2):173-180.
Stettler H, Kurka P, Wagner C, Sznurkowska K, Czernicka O, Böhling A, Bielfeldt S, Wilhelm KP, Lenz H.J Dermatolog Treat. 2017 May;28(3):251-257.
Zhang X, Kerob D, Zhang Z, Tao H, He X, Yi Y, Fang X, Wang W, Steel A. Skin Res Technol. 2024 Jan;30(1):e13540.