Introduction: Cholesterol – more than just a blood lipid
Cholesterol is a natural component of our body – and also plays a central role in skin care. In the epidermis, it acts as a moisturizing factor and, in combination with other lipids, ensures a functioning skin barrier. However, the classic raw material of animal origin is increasingly controversial. The modern cosmetics industry is therefore turning to plant-based, semi-synthetic alternatives with optimized skin compatibility and better formulability. Welcome to the new era of cholesterol cosmetics!
Cholesterol in nature and its role in the skin
Cholesterol (INCI: Cholesterol) is a fat-like molecule that occurs naturally in all animal cells. It is particularly abundant in human sebum (skin oil) and in the extracellular lipid matrix of the stratum corneum—the outermost layer of our skin. In this lipid matrix, cholesterol, ceramides, and free fatty acids form lamellar (layer-like) structures that protect the skin from water loss and external influences.
Around one third of the lipids in the skin barrier consist of cholesterol and its derivatives, such as cholesterol sulfate or cholesterol succinate. They regulate the permeability of the skin, improve the absorption of other active ingredients, and influence the texture and stability of cosmetic emulsions.
Production and origin: From sheep’s wool to plant-based innovation
Traditionally, cholesterol was extracted from wool wax (lanolin), a by-product of the sheep wool industry. However, this process often involves the use of solvents and chemical extraction agents that can leave behind residues such as pesticides. This makes many consumers skeptical, especially in the context of clean beauty and vegan trends.
The solution: plant-based cholesterol alternatives
Evonik’s PhytoChol® technology represents a significant step toward sustainable cosmetics. Here, cholesterol analogues are produced semi-synthetically from plant-based raw materials such as GMO-free pine products. The result is skin-identical molecules with improved solubility, better penetration, and high purity.
Cholesterol USP/NF-PW(RB): Quality that convinces
In addition to plant-based alternatives, pharmaceutically pure cholesterol is also playing a growing role. An outstanding example is Cholesterol USP/NF-PW(RB). This high-purity variant complies with the standards of the United States Pharmacopeia/National Formulary (USP/NF) and thus offers maximum safety and purity – ideal for sensitive skin and medical-cosmetic applications. The fine powder is easy to process and is suitable for high-quality creams, emulsions, or liposomal systems. If you are looking for uncompromising quality, this form of cholesterol is the right choice.
Advantages of the new cholesterol cosmetics
The innovative cholesterol derivatives are true all-rounders:
Emulsion stabilizing: Promote the formation of lamellar structures.
Penetration-enhancing: Increase the effectiveness of other ingredients.
Barrier-strengthening: Support the regeneration of the skin lipid matrix.
Versatile: Ideal for day, night, and moisturizing care.
Clean beauty compatible: Free from animal ingredients, highly pure, and well tolerated.
Hair care & sun protection: Improve combability and protect against UV damage.
Cholesterol derivatives at a glance
Cholesteryl Succinate
INCI: Cholesteryl Succinate
CAS No.: 1510-21-0
Formula: C31H50O4
Effect: Skin-like, with very good solubility, promotes penetration.
Use: Creams, serums, masks – especially in anti-aging formulations.
Brand name: TEGO® Sterol HCS
Potassium Cholesteryl Sulfate
INCI: Potassium Cholesteryl Sulfate
CAS No.: 6614-96-6
Formula: C27H45KO4S
Effect: Strengthens the skin barrier, supports cell renewal.
Special feature: Emulsifying, softening.
Brand name: TEGO® Sterol KCS
7-dehydrocholesterol
INCI: 7-dehydrocholesterol
CAS No.: 434-16-2
Formula: C27H44O
Special feature: Precursor of vitamin D3.
Effect: Supports antimicrobial peptides, strengthens UV protection.
Brand name: TEGO® Sterol 7-DHC
Profile: Cholesterol
In addition to these specialized derivatives, classic cholesterol remains an indispensable ingredient in many cosmetic formulations. Here is an overview of its properties:
INCI: Cholesterol
Molecular formula: C27H46O
Aggregation: Solid (waxy)
Appearance: White to ivory
Solubility: Poorly soluble in water, soluble in oil
Function in cosmetics: Emulsifier, skin protection, lipid regulator
Alternative names: Cholest-5-en-3β-ol
Extraction: Conventional: lanolin; modern: plant-based and pharmaceutical pure forms such as USP/NF-PW(RB)
Conclusion: Cholesterol reimagined – for strong and well-cared-for skin
Cholesterol and its modern derivatives offer an excellent combination of skin affinity, functionality, and compatibility. These ingredients are particularly recommended for people with sensitive, dry, or mature skin. The plant-derived variants and high-purity pharmaceutical grades impress with their purity, effectiveness, and sustainable production—in line with clean beauty standards.
We use the active ingredient cholesterol, which meets the highest standards of effectiveness, skin compatibility, and innovation, in our high-quality private label products. We combine proven ingredients with modern biotechnological developments to create tailor-made formulations that meet the individual needs of your target group. Our focus is on quality, transparency, and the optimal synergy of all ingredients—for visible results and a compelling brand experience.
Tojo Cosmetics Private Label—your brand, our passion for effectiveness and quality.
Interested? Contact us now with no obligation.
Literature:
Lipids and the Permeability and Antimicrobial Barriers of the Skin.
Wertz PW.J Lipids. 2018 Sep 2;2018:5954034.
The skin barrier: An extraordinary interface with an exceptional lipid organization.
Bouwstra JA, Nădăban A, Bras W, McCabe C, Bunge A, Gooris GS.Prog Lipid Res. 2023 Nov;92:101252.