Why hyaluronic acid is so popular
Products containing hyaluronic acid are said to smooth wrinkles and tighten the skin. They are considered an extremely effective anti-aging weapon, can plump up the skin from within and make it soft and supple. That is why they are no longer just a fashion trend, but an essential part of skin care.
However, how well they actually work depends largely on the type of hyaluronic acid used. Science knows of several different types. These differ chemically in the length of their molecular chains and the size of their molecules.
The most important facts about hyaluronic acid
Hyaluronic acid is a substance produced naturally by the body that acts like a sponge in our organism, as it is able to bind up to 1000 times its own weight in water. Although there are different molecular weights, it is unfortunately not yet possible to determine these reliably using the INCI list.
Differences between high- and low-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid
High-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid with a molecular weight of more than 500 kilodaltons (kDa) is a very good surface moisturizer. It serves as a skin protectant and can act as an osmotic pump, i.e., it can help water-soluble active ingredients penetrate the skin. Low molecular weight hyaluronic acid has a molecular weight of less than 500 kilodaltons (kDa) and can therefore moisturize the skin a little deeper. Nevertheless, it is a relatively large molecule that mainly acts in the outer layer of our skin (epidermis). In an interesting study, low-molecular hyaluronic acid with a molecular weight of only 200 kilodaltons was used. It was found that it can help the skin to repair itself by specifically strengthening its self-defense mechanisms.
Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid and other types in detail
Science knows of high-molecular hyaluronic acid, which consists of very large molecules. These are “too large” to be absorbed by the skin. They are hardly able to penetrate the natural skin barrier. Therefore, they form a film on the skin and provide it with moisture on the surface. This initially makes lines and wrinkles appear filled in. Unfortunately, this effect is only short-lived. After the next facial cleansing, the positive effect disappears again. Often, even increased perspiration (for example, in midsummer or during physical exertion) is enough to wash away the hyaluronic acid film. Products containing high-molecular hyaluronic acid can therefore only improve the appearance of the skin for a very short time. Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid is completely different. Let’s start with low-molecular hyaluronic acid. It is able to penetrate the skin barrier. In the skin, it replenishes moisture reserves, often making it appear much plumper and more youthful. For a long time, low-molecular hyaluronic acid was therefore considered the gold standard. However, it is now known that hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid is even more effective.
But what exactly is hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid?
It is obtained by hydrolyzing high-molecular hyaluronic acid. It has not been on the market for long and is characterized by extremely short-chain molecular structures. By breaking down the high-molecular molecules into tiny building blocks (known as fragmentation in technical jargon), penetration, i.e., absorption into the skin, is significantly facilitated. Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid can penetrate into the deepest layers of the skin and store moisture there. The skin is plumped up with an immediately visible and noticeable effect. At the same time, it stimulates the body’s own collagen production. This also improves the skin structure in the long term.
Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid is therefore basically nothing more than a chemically broken down version of the originally much larger molecule of hyaluronic acid used as a moisturizer. It is now available in different molecular weights, which have different properties. However, it must first be clarified in which unit the molecular weight is specified. In order to be able to specify molecular masses reliably and accurately, scientists use the unit kilodalton (kDa). One kilodalton corresponds to 1000 daltons. But back to hyaluronic acid.
Different molecular weights lead to different effects
Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid with a molecular weight of 100 to 300 kilodaltons moisturizes the skin and helps it to repair itself. This works by improving the skin’s self-protection.
There are now more and more researchers who claim that hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid can even promote the wound healing process and is particularly beneficial for people with rosacea, acne, and other inflammation-related skin conditions.
Then there is hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid with a molecular weight of only 50 kilodaltons. This size is mainly used as an anti-aging ingredient because it is optimally absorbed by the skin and can plump up smaller wrinkles.
Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid with a molecular weight of less than 50 kilodaltons, on the other hand, is very rare and something very special.
An impressive example is hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid called Hyalo-Oligo, which has a molecular weight of only ten kilodaltons. It has an extremely low molecular weight of only ten kilodaltons. This means that it can penetrate deep into the skin, where it provides long-lasting moisture. However, the short-chain molecules not only contribute to effective moisturization, but also ensure that damaged skin cells are repaired.
Versatile applications in cosmetics
Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid is particularly well suited for anti-wrinkle products and moisturizing cosmetics. It is also ideal for lip and eye contour care and hair care. The concentration depends on the area of application, but is usually between 0.1 and 0.5 percent. However, it can also be up to 1.0 percent.
Fact sheet: Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid
INCI: Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
CAS number: 9004-61-9
Molecular formula: C₁₄H₂₁O₁₁N
Physical state: solid
Description: Component of the extracellular matrix, usually present as a linear polysaccharide and acts as a lubricant for joint movements.
Effect: binds and stores moisture, supports the skin in its repair processes.
Areas of application: Anti-aging products, skin care products, lip and eye contour care.
An active ingredient for demanding skin care
Not all hyaluronic acid is the same, that much is certain. The larger the molecules, the more difficult it is for the active ingredient to penetrate the skin. Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid has tiny molecular fragments that can penetrate into the subcutaneous layers. There they can fully unfold their positive effects. Users generally report a clearly visible long-term effect. The skin appears plumper and firmer, becoming smoother and more elastic.
We use the active ingredient hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, which meets the highest standards of effectiveness, skin compatibility, and innovation, in our high-quality private label products. We combine proven ingredients with modern biotechnological developments to create tailor-made formulations that meet the individual needs of your target group. Our focus is on quality, transparency, and the optimal synergy of all ingredients—for visible results and a compelling brand experience.
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Literature:
Lee YI, Lee SG, Kim J, Choi S, Jung I, Lee JH. Int J Mol Sci. 2021 Sep 22;22(19):10189.